Back to Chile-the best of and worst of...

It is hard to follow up on Iguazu Falls in Argentina. Our next destination of Salta, Argentina was only a brief stopover as we traveled due northwest into Northern Chile and Southern Peru.  The only thing we had time to do in Salta was catch the teleferico (cable car) to enjoy a wonderful view of Salta and the Lerma valley.  Other than that Salta appeared as many of the larger cities we visited, overcrowded, chaotic and dirty.  There was the Train to the clouds (El Tren a Las Nubes) that had we had time we would have enjoyed.  Reportedly it  travels up to 4220 m above sea level to the Andean plateu of Puna.     We left Salta by bus with our destination to the surf city of Arica, Chile; we passed San Salvador de Jujuy, another apparently lackluster city, however we gave it only a glance as we were stuck in a bus.   The scenery along the way to Arica was incredible.  We saw the amazing salt flats of the Atacama desert.  The Atacama is supposedly the driest desert in the world, surrounded by mountains.  The northern section  of Chile also known as Norte Chico is referred to as the region of 10,000 mines, and we saw the trails of many of these.  The Aymara people still farm the foothills of the Andes.  Our bus took us up the winding curved mountains from the barren stretches of painted desert landscapes.    We had to change buses in a dirty, seedy little town of Calama.  I was exhausted from the 13 hour bus ride from Salta along with the experiencing the variations of altitude from the dizzying heights of Andean mountaintops.  It was night fall and we had a 3 hour layover.  I was desperate for something to eat so I searched the town, getting lost in the process.  Panic set in temporarily as I worried I would miss the bus to Arica.  I asked several people, all giving me different directions.  By the time I found our bus station I was even more exhausted then before.  We went outside of the station where scores of travelers were awaiting their bus.  Gilly went to put our large packs on the bus and I had put my pack down in front of me leaning up against a gate.  I spotted a pair of keys on the ground and mentioned it to a man nearby who then handed them to me.  A ruse used to distract me and by the time I turned around my small pack was gone.  In a complete panic, I scoured the area, asking staff and travelers alike, all to no avail.  I had been robbed as so many other travelers had been.  I fumed and fretted the entire bus ride to Arica, but then resigned myself to the fact I wasn't going to let it ruin the rest of my adventure and I would attempt to replace what I could at the next stop.    Most disappointing was losing the pictures on my phone.  Unfortunately they weren't backed up in a program as I had assumed.  Along with the loss of my phone, was the loss of my passwords, i pad, my journal, a coat, two credit cards, my license and some miscellaneous.    Most bus stations have police in attendance but this one unfortunately did not.   So I have had to recall much of my travels by memory; thankfully I still have one.

Arrival at Arica, Chile the following morning.  I was exhausted as I spent the entire bus ride fuming about the theft.   I was looking forward to spending a relaxing day at a beach.  Arica is described as an urban beach resort.  Reportedly Arica is a well known surfing destination with "treacherous tubes."  Apparently we arrived in off season as the waves were mostly flat.   Our hostel was a "surf hostel."    The city part was not much to brag about but I was able to purchase a mini ipad, allowing me to make advanced reservations at hostels and make skype calls.  I spent much of the first day cancelling credit cards and attempting to replace some of the least expensive items.     There is an enormous rock, called El Morro de Arica which is situated over the city and the beaches.    We spent one day taking a Collectivo (taxis that travel to specific destinations) to a very out of the way museum in the valley.  It is home to some of the world's oldest mummies predating those in Egypt.  It is managed by the University.  When the Collectivo driver dropped us off in the this desolate, barren landscape bordered by dessert hills, we wondered if we had a misunderstanding.  The museum sign was scrawled on a board in magic marker.  Despite the less than impressive introduction, we were impressed by the museums exhibits.  The mummies were encased in glass exhibit cases and were preserved in amazing condition.  I was impressed.
Finally we ended our last stop in Chile with a visit to the beach about 2 km out of Arica.  This beach was practically deserted but still patrolled by lifeguards.    There were maybe 5 people and a dog in about 1/4 mile of beach.    It was a beautiful day but too cool for me to enter the Pacific; Gilly took the plunge however.

Next off to Peru.....