Chile's charming capital, Santiago

Neither of us are city people, and is why we live in the country, but Santiago surprised us with it's welcoming atmosphere.  Santiago is surrounded by the Andes mountains so escaping back into the wilds of nature is easy enough.  The city's populations exploded in the 1880's with the nitrate boom.  Several earthquakes helped to shape the city's architecture.   The city has one of the nicest, cleanest subway/metro systems I have encountered.  It was clean and uncomplicated for the road weary traveler to travel throughout the city.  We were fortunate to stay in a wonderful hostel in the district of Providencia.  Our host, Kurt and his friend served us the best breakfasts we had ever had with fresh strawberry juice, rapes from their own grape arbor, and other assorted fruits and vegetables along with fresh baked rolls and omelettes.    After a filling breakfast we visited the emotionally evocative Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos--Human rights museum, which opened it's doors in 2010.    This museum details in graphic presentations of videos, newsreel footage, films and printed articles of the coup d'etat of Salvador Allende with U.S.political and financial backing of the take over of the military dictator Pinochet.  40,000 plus victims of torture, executions and disappearances is still being investigated to this day in hopes of closing the books on this tragic chapter in Chile's history and our interventionist policies.    This museum is huge and can't be taken in without spending an entire day, if you are emotionally prepared for it.

On day two we took a walking tour throughout the city, which was well worth it.  It costs nothing except for what you want to donate in the way of tips or propinos.  It covers all the highlights of the city, including cultural, historic and artistic.  It ends with a tour of Pablo Neruda's home.

There is much to keep one occupied in Santiago, whether you want to trek up the Cerro Pochoco or go bicycling using the bike lanes throughout the city or visit the various artists communities.  Unfortunately, we weren't able to spend much time there taking advantage of all that the city had to offer.  Our bus to Santiago from Villarrica was not only long but when we arrived in Santiago we noticed Gilly's backpack did not.  Apparently it had been taken off at one of the several stops prior to reaching Santiago.  We spent most of the morning at the enormous bus station, followed by a stop at the U.S. embassy.  We were told there that U.S. embassy really only handles lost passports, but they did allow us to use their computers and phones.  We also met a nice couple with their young son from Boston who had all their belongings stolen out of their rental car in broad daylight outside of their hotel.  The man was a professional photographer and all his equipment was taken.    After the embassy we went to the police station and waited and waited among other locals attempting to file a claim or report with the police.  When our number was called, we attempted in poor Spanish to communicate our need to file a claim for our insurance.  This would have been amusing had we not been thoroughly exhausted.  We finally succeeded in completing a report and after spending an entire day, we returned to our comfortable hostel.  Just as we arrived, there was a knock on the our room door and the owner stated that the bus company had called and had found our backpack.  We took the subway to the bus company and there it was, simple as that.  The staff were unable to speak english, but it wasn't necessary as they clearly communicated their relief as we did ours.